From Suburbs to Soho: New Gastropub to open in October
By David Boddy, Special Correspondent
Joe Grossman, owner-founder of the highly successful Barnes-based Watermans Arms, is to take his winning recipe in an ambitious attempt to sauce up the Soho food scene.
Having proven the doom-mongers wrong when he took over the failing West London pub, which overlooks the Thames near the heart of Barnes village, he now wants to tempt the pallet of international tourists and city workers drawn to the Carnaby street scene.
Having an early career history of flipping burgers and buns, Joe is looking to keep stirring the success formula.
He and the team of 40 at the Barnes site, led by General Manager, Simon Walsh, aged 38, have given emphasis to excellent cooking, quality produce and distinctive wines over traditional pub drinking. As a result, their 88 covers (100+ in the summer when the balcony is in use) are fully booked late weekdays and every weekend. It’s the go-to place in Barnes.
With pubs closing across the country at a rapid rate, Walsh recognises that the team have to keep innovating and changing – their menus can alter every day. But surely heading for Soho is entering a totally different world? No more sweeping up gentle evening-time rowers when they’ve finished their workout on the Thames; more fighting with the piranhas who spend their days swimming in the West End fishtank?
“We kept being told no one succeeds here on this site,” says Walsh, with the confidence of a general manager who met his boss when looking after another iconic London pub.
“Joe was a regular there and he really loves pubs. When we opened here the locals
wished us well but doubted we would make it. Joe was always intent on opening up somewhere else when we did.”
Nearby neighbours, Petersham Nurseries, took their restaurant offering from leafy Ham, near Richmond, into Covent Garden with two venues, but closed this February, blaming high rents, increasing staff costs, the rise in NI and legacy issues from Brexit and Covid.
Walsh acknowledges the significant challenges the sector faces. “ We have to be reactive, adjust, pivot and be flexible. The competition is insane, and so we will adjust our offering to be more drinking led with a pared down menu,” he said.
He is clearly not afraid of the competition, whether in Soho or in Barnes, where the affluent area is expecting the arrival of another top-of-the-range restaurant to replace the branch of Cote, which recently closed. He believes their attention to staff development – the Waterman’s Arms is acknowledged as providing outstanding service – will attract loyal young staff into the hospitality industry.
“Part of our job is to show British youngsters that the hospitality sector can be a career path that is viable. We take that part very seriously,” he said.
Having proven the doubters wrong when they moved into Barnes the team is determined to do the same in Soho.
The Shaston Arms in Ganton Street, off Carnaby Street, is due to open in early October.