The Hong Konger Magazine
Suburban Setting, Top Class Cuisine
By David Boddy, Special Correspondent
It may come as a surprise to recent arrivals, but some of the best food to be found in London is not in the city. It is in the suburbs, where the setting may not have quite as many bright lights, but the cuisine certainly dazzles.
One such watering hole, as the locals sometimes refer to them, is the Watermans Arms, nestled on the edge of the River Thames in Barnes, South-west London. It’s an easy 25 minute journey from Waterloo Station to Barnes or Barnes Bridge Station, and just 10 minutes from leafy Richmond. For lovers of high quality, good-value, international cuisine, it’s a journey worth taking.
Restaurant-entrepreneur Joe Grossman, whose early career was flipping burgers in a far more down-market establishment, took over the failing pub in September 2023, attracting top chef Sam Andrews and super-experienced general manager, Simon Walsh.
Grossman had a great love of pubs and knew they could be much better, so long as the quality of produce was the best and the service was excellent. Locals doubted that he could make a success of it, which was not surprising since several other establishments on the same site had failed.
What Grossman and the team of 40 were able to do was to craft a dining experience of top-class quality, served by well-trained, attentive young staff who are clearly committed to making the whole event such a memorable one that the discerning locals will want to come back to again and again.
Now, two years on, not only are the locals regularly returning, but so too are the dining connoisseurs from central London and abroad.
The setting helps, especially when the spring and summer nights start reaching out. With the balcony overlooking the magical Thames, as it winds its way towards the end of the famous University Boat Race in Chiswick, the setting is perfect for a romantic conversation or celebratory outing.
Another attraction is the innovative menu which can change daily, but always features both meat and fish specials, sourced from top UK food producers.
On my visit, celebrating recent exam success of the family youngsters, we chose a selection to start (supposedly to share) from the skate and wild asparagus, the aubergine and gorgonzola lasagne, and the chopped raw beef panisse. We followed up with the spit roast chicken and the market fish, which on that day was sea bream. Each member of the group gave the dishes 5* ratings, even though we were pretty selfish and didn’t do as much sharing as had been suggested to us.
Nadia, one of the outstanding young servers – the management put a great deal of emphasis on staff training – was discretely attentive throughout, suggesting appropriate wines from their eclectic list to perfectly complement the meal at each course.
And the downsides?
With five at our table, it all felt a bit crowded; the place was packed. Which is perhaps why owner Joe Grossman is about to open another establishment, but this time in Soho, close to the iconic Carnaby Street in the West End of London.
Size of the bill? Reasonably hefty (£65 per head), but not unreasonably so for the value delivered. Portion sizes were good. We left with our stomachs satisfied and our wallets not too damaged.
Booking in advance is essential. Watermans Arms is open Tuesday to Sunday in the evenings, with lunch also offered Thursdays through the weekend.
Bookings via website www.watermansarms.co.uk or phone 020 45298970